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An insider’s guide to Malmesbury

Posted: Mon, 17th Mar 2025

Malmesbury is one of those hidden Cotswold gems, often overlooked for its more well-known neighbours. It might have been missed off your ‘must visit’ list. It has such an exciting history with so many stories to tell. There is so much to see and do that you’ll have to find time on your schedule to visit this “Queen of Hilltop Towns”.

Surrounded by the twisting River Avon and miles of typically Cotswold farmland, the heart of the town is the abbey. With a surprisingly varied past it’s more than first appears!

You can easily spend a day or a long weekend here, stopping off for lunch, exploring the history and shopping the boutiques. We’ve listed some of our favourite things so you know where to start your Malmesbury adventure.

The beautiful and unique

Sitting next to the iconic abbey, the Abbey House Gardens are over 1300 years old. This is where the monks once grew medicinal herbs. Today it is under renovation but is open on some days during the summer so you can have a glimpse of the beauty that’s to come!

Held just outside Malmesbury at Charlton Park, WOMAD festival is a celebration of art, music and dance from around the world. Showcasing acts in July the line up is filled with such a diverse range of expression that you’ll soon be inspired to check out the workshops and get yourself moving and singing along.

Throughout August, Malmesbury becomes a flourish of colour as the carnival and festival comes to town. With their own Petticoat Lane stalls and events that have spanned escapology and pillow fights in the past, it’s worth timing your visit to make sure you don’t miss out on the carnival shenanigans.

The strange and unusual

Hidden behind this quaint and picturesque town are tales of flying monks, tigers, witchcraft and kings. At the abbey lies the tomb of King Athelstan, the first king of England. He is said to have never lost a battle and became known as “Athelstan the Glorious”.

A strange story comes from the roof of the abbey as well. Eilmer the monk fastened wings between his hands and feet, leaping from the tower to fly 200 metres! Unfortunately, his bravery was rewarded with two broken legs, but considering this took place around 1010 it’s no small feat.

Alongside these tales of heroics, Malmesbury has another tale of flight, this time witches on their broomsticks. In 1672 fourteen people were accused of witchcraft, four of which were put on trial for this crime punishable by death.

The story of Hannah Twynnoy is a sad and shocking affair, and you’ll find her gravestone in the abbey churchyard. While working at the White Lion Inn, where wild animals were kept for exhibition, a tiger escaped its cage and took its revenge on poor Hannah.

The history and mystery

All that remains of Malmesbury Abbey is the impressive nave, but there was once much more to see here. Dating back to 1180 it was added to over the years and at one stage had a great spire, once the tallest building in England! The great spire fell in the 15^th century but the building that remains is still beautiful. The tomb of King Athelstan lays here, but his remains do not, the tomb is empty. It is rumoured that his remains were scattered in the abbey garden next door.

You can learn everything you need to know about the history of Malmesbury at the Athelstan Museum. A silver penny from the reign of King Athelstan, a watercolour of the town by JMW Turner and a collection of 1920s wedding dresses are part of the varied items on display here. You can also listen to the stories of local residents who share their memories. You’ll get a fabulous insight into what life was really like here.

The countryside walks

Malmesbury can easily be explored on foot and the river walk is a great place to start. From the Market Cross head out towards the River Avon to the West, following a path down to Daniel’s Well. Turning left you can follow the path along the river taking in the surrounding countryside with views across the town as well. Following paths around the town you can do a loop back to the Market Cross.

Not quite a walk, but an exciting way to explore, Baboon Adventures provide electric scooter excursions. Zooming around Charlton Park Estate the easy to drive sit on scooters are family friendly. Follow a 6km route you’ll feel the wind in your hair as the Wiltshire countryside whizzes by!

The shops, pubs and restaurants

By now you’ll surely have worked up an appetite! You probably saw The Birdcage as you wandered the streets, the bright display drawing you in. The restaurant is named after the market cross which it overlooks which is today nicknamed the ‘birdcage’ because of its design. This authentic pizzeria has a large Italian menu making sure there’s something to suit your fancy.

If fine dining is more what you’re looking for, nearby Whatley Manor has a choice of settings for your meal. Dinner is served in The Dining Room from Thursday to Sundays where you experience a menu of inspiring cooking. Grey’s Restaurant is a more relaxed affair with an a la carte menu of local and sustainable ingredients. For a special occasion, what could be more luxurious than an afternoon tea of sandwiches, scones and cakes served on the beautiful terrace.